The Fall/Winter 2024 fashion season has since descended upon Milan, Italy. From legendary fashion houses like Versace, Armani, Ferragamo, and Prada to debut collections like Adrian Appiolaza for Moschino and Matteo Tamburini for Tod’s, the city has been pulsating with high energy, haute couture, and celebrity sightings.
The allure of Milan Fashion Week has always extended beyond the runway, It is usually more of a celebration of sophistication and craftsmanship, as the city is home to some of the world’s most renowned luxury brands like Armani, Prada, Versace, and Moschino.
This season’s Milan Fashion Week prioritised classic and timeless designs, with a noticeable absence of 90’s fashion resurgence and the AI and digital elements prevalent in London, Paris, and New York Fashion Weeks. Fendi creative director, Kim Jones reaffirmed this theme by saying, “It seems timeless elegance is in fashion again as the era of 90s nostalgia has run its course.”
Iconic pieces such as sheer garments and leather patterns dominated the runways, with designers like Moschino, Bottega Veneta, Max Mara, Roberto Cavalli, Tokyo James, Alberta Ferretti, and Dolce & Gabbana showcasing minimalist aesthetics. At Dolce & Gabbana’s show, it wasn’t just supermodel Naomi Campbell on the catwalk and Eva Mendes in the front row adorning the trend, there were a series of chic, skin-baring looks on the runway—all in black and inspired by the classic tuxedo.
The D&G creative directors nearly dedicated their entire collection to the sleek-back trend, pairing inky-black transparent silk skirts with berets, netted veils, and bolero-style tuxedo jackets on the catwalk stage. Sheer black blouses accentuated with satin belts and fringed feathers completed the looks, complementing Ferragamo designer Maximillian Davis, who earlier showcased dresses featuring dropped waistlines, feather embellishments, and sequins, inspired by “1920’s classic style.”
Several brands, including Prada, Diesel, Armani, and Marni, embraced faux fur extensively in their collections. Notably, the Marni show, considered the most controversial of Milan Fashion Week, featured the audience and models entirely clad in the brand’s designs. The creative director Francesco Risso described the showcase as “A collection about the act of getting dressed to be together. An action of trying on, fitting in, and fitting out that connects the audience and the show, the observers and the observed. Everything and everyone as one.”
Celebrities like Salma Hayek and Solange Knowles graced the Gucci show in classic looks, as models strutted in sequined and crystal creations. Meanwhile, Prada showcased simple silhouettes, and a lot of neutral colours, welcoming a diverse group of attendees, including Hunter Schafer and Emma Watson, adding to the show’s glamour.
Beyond star power, the true focus of Milan Fashion Week was on the clothes themselves, as models like Naomi Campbell, Amelia Hamlin, Gigi Hadid, and Paloma Elsesser walked the runway in mossy greens, patchwork prints, cozy knits, ribbed sweaters, and, leather garments, emphasising quality materials and timeless contours over fleeting trends, evoking a sense of comfort.
This season’s Milan Fashion Week wasn’t just about showcasing the latest trends; it was a celebration of fashion’s enduring power. From the established houses revisiting their heritage to the fresh perspectives of emerging designers, the city offered a glimpse into the future of fashion, all while highlighting the appeal of classic styles.
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Written by Angel Joanne Okonkwo
