Milan Fashion Week kicked off on the 17th of September with a refreshing dose of whimsy and boldness, infused with its surprises. The Spring-Summer 2025 shows invited us to “expect the unexpected,” offering a contrast to the city’s usual adherence to established fashion codes. Gone were the strictly practical pieces of the past season; this time, designers embraced a playful theme, straying from Milan’s usual focus on house codes and familiar signatures. Just six months ago, designers were offering up practical everyday clothes. This fashion week, however, many of those same labels largely went off-script in pursuit of a fresh perspective, making it a challenge to gauge the overall mood of the season.
The atmosphere felt almost electric, as brands known for their strong identities ventured into uncharted territory. Miuccia Prada, the iconic designer, admitted to feeling “very, very nervous” before unveiling her collection, a sentiment that sent ripples through the fashion community. With so much uncertainty in the air, the shows felt unhinged, hinting at a season defined by experimental Italian elegance.
And what a return it was for the creased aesthetic! At Prada’s show, collars were whimsically twisted, while Ferragamo showcased trench coats adorned with puckered lines. Max Mara took wrinkles to new heights with tailored shirt dresses that looked as if they had just emerged from the dryer. But the star of the show? Bottega Veneta, where normally pristine ensembles appeared beautifully rumpled. Creative director Matthieu Blazy explained, “It’s like that first day at school when you arrive looking impeccable and you come back at the end of the day crumpled.” This intentional embrace of imperfection proved once more that style can thrive even in chaos.
Fendi’s Kim Jones also explored this relaxed approach, presenting a 1920s-inspired collection that combined vintage charm with modern flair. “I wanted to make it more into the girl that I know,” he shared, drawing inspiration from friends like Kate Moss. The playful mix of delicate Art Deco dresses with chunky lace-up boots was a nod to contemporary femininity, striking a perfect balance between nostalgia and modernity.
After a long stint in the fashion wilderness, the ‘blouse’ made a triumphant return at MFW. From frilly and floral at Prada to buttoned-up Peter Pan collars at Jil Sander, it was clear that this staple had reclaimed its spot in the spotlight. At Jil Sander, the designers presented beautiful chinoiserie-inspired styles, showing an unexpected luxe that departed from the brand’s usually minimalist aesthetic.
The era of quiet luxury seemed to be fading on the Milan catwalks this season, replaced by shimmering dresses adorned with embellishments that jingled down the runway. At Marni, for instance, bold rhinestone-embroidered ball gowns created awe-inspiring visuals, while N°21 sent models clattering by in hand-embroidered “couture-glam” dresses. Even Versace showcased a dazzling gown made from mirrored paillettes, and a structured pattern dress on Gigi Hadid, before celebrities like Temi Otedola and Channing Tatum in the front-row, Donatella herself proclaimed, “Fashion sometimes wants to be very intellectual… but honestly, with what’s going on in the world, we need positivity and freedom.“
Madonna graced the front row at Dolce & Gabbana, stealing the spotlight and receiving a spontaneous standing ovation. Her presence was felt throughout the collection, which featured conical bras and models sporting corkscrew curls that harkened back to her iconic ’90s looks. Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana admitted, “It’s thanks to her that a lot of things in our lives changed.” Other celebrities like Michelle Yeoh, Kendall Jenner, Julianne Moore, and Normani were also spotted enjoying the spectacle
Mattieu Blazy at Bottega Veneta had his guests seated on nappa leather beanbags shaped like animals—a nostalgic nod to childhood fun and imagination. “It’s about that first experience of fashion when you try on your parents’ clothes and play dress-up,” he explained, inviting everyone to remember the joy of exploring through fashion.
This playful spirit was echoed throughout Milan Fashion Week, with Dakota Johnson and Jessica Chastain seen at Gucci, embodying the chicest style alongside Kirsten Dunst and Christian Dunst. Irina Shayk made a stunning appearance at the Missoni show, while Nara Smith and Lucky Blue Smith shared a mutual model moment at Prada. Taylor Hill turned heads at Elisabetta Franchi, and Charli D’Amelio brought her youthful charm to the Prada runway, as did Carey Mulligan.
When the heat of the Milan Fashion Week eventually panned down, it was evident that the city seemed to be embracing a newfound playfulness and creativity, proving that sometimes, the best fashion is about having fun, reminding everyone that this season was all about celebrating the unexpected!
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Written by Angel Joanne Okonkwo
