How Designers Used The Runway to Advocate for Change in London, New York, Paris and Milan

This Fall/Winter season, fashion went beyond showing the latest trends, to addressing pressing global issues through runway presentations, and thought-provoking designs. From London and Paris to New York and Milan, designers used their creativity to advocate for cultural representation and change in the fashion industry.

London Fashion Week saw a positive mix of activism and artistry. Kazna Asker, who made history as the first designer to unveil a Hijabi collection at the CSM’s MA Fashion show, debuted her collection with different Yemeni inspired designs, particularly one which boldly threw light on the ongoing situation in Palestine. As she stated, “the collection offered a look into the multifaceted identity of Muslim women,” proving that the designer was keen to actively use her collection to raise awareness about global issues.

Sustainability also remained a key theme during LFW, with Patrick McDowell and Marques Almeida leading the charge. McDowell’s innovative upcycled creations offered a glimpse into a future where fashion and environmental consciousness go hand-in-hand. In a similar vein, Marques Almeida’s return to the runway with a collection that confronted ageism, showed their commitment to responsible practices, demonstrating that fashion can be stylish and impactful.

During Milan Fashion Week, THEMOIRè, renowned for its 100% Made in Italy vegan bags, unveiled its latest collection, the “Wings of Change,” celebrating their loyalty to environmental and social responsibility. Co-founders and creative directors of the brand, Salar Bicheranloo and Francesca Monaco, described the collection as a “testament to the brand’s unwavering commitment to a greener, more equitable future.”

Uruguayan designer Gabriela Hearst’s show at New York Fashion Week echoed the themes of women empowerment. Hearst, who is also the creative director at Chloe, said her Ready-to-Wear Collection was “inspired by the ancient Greek poet Sappho and how she had shed light on the hardships women had to endure.” On the runway, there were heavy-weights like women’s rights activist Cecile Richards, Mexican Chilean climate activist Xiye Ba and anti-toxic shock syndrome campaigner Lauren Wasser. Hearst also explained that she had aimed to offset the climate footprint of her show by working with Swiss company Climeworks, which uses technology to capture carbon dioxide directly from the air.

Across the Atlantic in Paris, Stella McCartney, a longstanding champion of sustainable fashion, delivered a show that paid homage to Mother Earth. Her collection embodied a deep respect for the environment, solidifying her position as a leader in the movement towards eco-conscious design and highlighting the need for environmentally responsible fashion choices while raising awareness about climate change.

Asides designers, at the heart of Paris Fashion Week, Celebrities like Olivia Wilde made bold fashion statements that blurred the lines between art and liberation. Donning a sheer black tank top from Saint Laurent’s fall 2024 collection, Wilde championed the “free the nipple” movement, igniting conversations and garnering praise from fans and celebrities alike, including Ali Wong and Lisa Rinna. The moment not only underscored the increasing acceptance of body positivity within the fashion industry but also marked a significant point in the ongoing dialogue about female autonomy and expression.

These powerful statements on the runway transcend mere aesthetics. They have demonstrated fashion’s power to drive positive change and influence societal norms. Building on this momentum, Designers like Kazna Asker, Patrick McDowell, Gabriella Hearst, Marques Almeida, and Stella McCartney have used their platforms to advocate for causes they believe in, inspiring meaningful action within the fashion community.

Their collections represent fashion with a conscience, wherein consumers are increasingly demanding ethical and sustainable practices from the brands they support. By using their platforms for activism, designers are not only raising awareness but also driving the industry towards a more responsible future.

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Written by Angel Joanne Okonkwo